A quick overview of injector replacment with parts and information from Merchant Automotive as part of Truck U TV on SPEED channel
Video Rating: 5 / 5
John Edwards discusses the various types of connecting rods found in modern engines. www.engine-machining.com (949) 631-6376
#1 by josiqvideos09 on October 20, 2011 - 1:02 am
@fiatnutz … and recently I turbocharged my engine and I set to 11psi like (200hp) on t3t4 on those stocks rods, and they holds it perfectly; my question is do they kind of rods holds 18-25psi like (350hp), or I need some H billet forged rods like #4 rod in the comparison at 4:00??? My engine gears redline shift is at 6,500rpm Thanks.
#2 by josiqvideos09 on October 20, 2011 - 1:10 am
@fiatnutz Hi man great video. I have a question for you: I have a 4G94 SOHC Lancer 2.0L this Lancer it comes with Forged Steel Rods but they are like the number #1 rod (from left to right of screen) at 4:00 comparison, so they looks really thin, but they are forged steel by the japanese mitsubishi factory…
(comment continued)
#3 by ArcticSTi on October 20, 2011 - 1:57 am
I love all these videos about Costa Mesa R&D. I learn more and more…
#4 by ratrace2p51 on October 20, 2011 - 2:02 am
OK, so what will tell me the “right” direction to install the rod.
I don’t see anything in the Haynes manual, or onthe web in general.
Can you send me to a picture some where that will show the orinitation of the rod.
#5 by fiatnutz on October 20, 2011 - 2:08 am
@ratrace2p51 – Yes, most rods go in an engine in a certain direction and you have to be mindful about how they are installed.
#6 by ratrace2p51 on October 20, 2011 - 2:52 am
Is there a front and a back to a connecting rod?
Yesterday I tore down a Chevy 2.2 LN2 and I noticed that the rods are not symetrical.
they have a “sort of tab” on one side but not the other?
#7 by dragsteralf on October 20, 2011 - 3:07 am
so power metal rods are stronger then forged rods? i only ask because you said the powder rod has a higher rpm limit.
#8 by toyota1212 on October 20, 2011 - 3:14 am
hi great video… very informative ! i have a couple questions, you said the h- beam are the strongest but you didn’t give them a rpm range… what would that be? also I have been looking into rebuilding my engine and finding shops to do the work and the one i found has a couple options and one is an upgrade from h-beam to i-beam why would i “upgrade” to i-beam? arnt the h-beams better? but there saying it will be an extra $400 for i-beam rods instead of the h-beams
thanks for the vid!
#9 by fiatnutz on October 20, 2011 - 3:57 am
@tiddlywink100 – No carbon fiber rods yet, but I do see a few titanium LS7 rods. I’m glad you are learning from my videos.
#10 by tiddlywink100 on October 20, 2011 - 4:48 am
Nice discussion on connecting rods…I always learn a lot when I watch these videos! Is there much usage of composite rods like carbon fiber and do you see exotic metal rods like titanium or other metals? Thanks again for your informative videos!
#11 by k9forkids on October 20, 2011 - 5:28 am
I always assumed that H-beam are the strongest but was told by an engine builder that some High dollar Forged Rod like carillo/Oliver was stronger, of course not taking in consideration of Alum Billet and Titanium
#12 by 20rich02 on October 20, 2011 - 6:17 am
Thanks for posting and also alot of thanks for your knowlege that you share with others. what i liked about your vid is that it wasnt to much or to less infos. just right to tag along with and to remember.another thing i liked is that your report was on one subject but which includes all types. Keep it goin guy, take care.
#13 by brendanraymond on October 20, 2011 - 6:19 am
@fiatnutz thanks mate
I just find it suppressing that they make them so big… I wouldn’t imagine that would be very good for keeping inertia and rotating mass down. Does the density in the steel vary that much that they need to be that big? I’m guessing this process would make the counter weights overly large?
So I’m guessing they’d be the first to go with modding a rod. Why don’t they just balance their rods the way you do from the factory? Expensive?
Thanks again for the reply!
#14 by fiatnutz on October 20, 2011 - 6:32 am
@brendanraymond – They are factory balance pads used to adjust the rod weights on both big and small ends
#15 by brendanraymond on October 20, 2011 - 6:46 am
what are those huge chucks of material located on both ends of the forged rod? ive seen them on a quite a few other rods but i havnt been able to work it out.
cheers
#16 by SoLSamuraibloodblade on October 20, 2011 - 7:35 am
@youdragon it is normal for higher oil pressuer during cold start up
oil is cold and much thicker than at operating temp
and 20 psi is fine on an idling engine
and as u drive revs are higher so naturally more oil pressure
#17 by brendanraymond on October 20, 2011 - 8:21 am
I really appreciate you uploading all of these vids… it answers alot of questions I’ve had that I was either too busy at the time to ask or just embarrassed to ask them completely.
I tip my hat to you
good day sir
#18 by flipmodeOptimus on October 20, 2011 - 9:14 am
Nice Video for a Junior Mechanic three years after tuition and fresh on the scene!! Nice going John
#19 by craigcbang94 on October 20, 2011 - 9:25 am
@fiatnutz ya actually i have the same problem, i need to check if it twist and is the reason why my engine is frozen. i believe i can drop the oil pan a bit and look up in there. but how can i drop the oil pan without taking out the engine completely? on a 99 crown Victoria p71
#20 by highdeserthater on October 20, 2011 - 10:07 am
@kalam518 if your rod is knocking it could be the bottom or top bearing. it means that its loose and could break and fly out of the block!! and that is not fun. if you have a rod knock you have to take it ALL apart to replace the crank and the rod that broke. if you have that you may aswell just do a complete rebuild. not that expensive if you do it yourself. but unless you have lots of experience thats not a good idea.
#21 by highdeserthater on October 20, 2011 - 10:10 am
dude what would happen if someone made a kevlar connecting rod? lol that i think would be WAY cool wouldnt it? or is kevlar not heatproof.
#22 by michaelovitch on October 20, 2011 - 10:12 am
@originaldriver
As said in the vid that’s why the lighter rods stay round more time than the others more heavy.
But it depends if the engine is NA or turbo too.
the stress is not the same on those engines….
#23 by dimman77 on October 20, 2011 - 10:55 am
@bastec666 Well you are so far from reality in your statement that I have to conclude that either you are a troll, stunningly ignorant or amazingly stubborn. Either way there is no sense in me continuing this discussion as banging my head against a wall would be more productive. Like I said before, research.
Cheers,
D
#24 by bastec666 on October 20, 2011 - 11:30 am
@dimman77 im not wrong, in anyway, by smashing the metal into shape you compress the metal at the same time making it weaker. when rays racing makes rims, they don’t take hot metal and make a rim, its you generic ready to go slab of meat, and they compress it to the rim shape, and then cut it to exact shape, it makes the rim super light but it also breaks easy, hence when you buy rims that are circa 10 pounds or less they break so fucking easy.
i will correct nothing.
#25 by dimman77 on October 20, 2011 - 12:28 pm
@bastec666 Erm… Maybe do some research on what heat and pressure of forging do to metal grain then come back and fix this post…